Popularly known as Brij Bhoomi, Mathura is a major pilgrimage place for Hindus. Krishna, the popular incarnation of Vishnu, is believed to have been born in Mathura, and is closely linked with many episodes in his early life.

Although almost like a forgotten city after the great cultural and rich enduring past it had, Mathura has grown in recent years into a multi-faceted urban sprawl with haphazard industrial development on the outskirts. A city of temples and shrines bustling with thousands of devotees, its most popular shrine is the Dwarikadhish Temple.

Nearby is Vrindavan, where Krishna sported with his gopis (milkmaids), and where the Hare Krishna has their headquarters. Although an important centre for the arts, the significance of the region is largely incorporeal. The city is dotted with places of religious and historical interest.

HISTORY

Hindu mythology claims that Shatrughna, the youngest brother of Lord Rama - the King of Ayodhya and hero of Ramayana, founded it. However, earliest historical records of Mathura date back around 2500 years, before the conquest of Alexander. Buddha himself founded monasteries here, in what was known to later Greeks as Madouraton Theon (Mathura of Gods).

The city reached an early peak under the Indo-Bactrian Kushan dynasty when Kanishka came to power in 78 AD. Fa Hian, the Chinese pilgrim, reported that in 400 AD it held twenty Buddhist monasteries, with about three thousand resident monks.

But, the enduring prosperity and sophistication of Mathura, which lay on a busy trade route, attracted many invaders including Muhammad of Ghazni, whose plundering and destruction signaled the death knell of Buddhism. Sikander Lodi from Delhi brought further havoc in 1500, as did Aurangzeb.

CULTURE

Mathura is a city blessed with good ancient culture, tradition, and heritage. After its great cultural, rich enduring past it had with Buddhism and Lord Krishna, the culture of the city revolves around Lord Krishna.

The art of decorating the ground with flowers known as Sanjhee, Raaslila - the dance festival and Charkula - the traditional folk dance of Braj with the rich tradition of folk songs (Rasiya songs) is part of the cultural evolvement here.

FOOD

Vegetarian food is what you get, in various permutations and combinations. Food tends to be greasy/ rich and one hopes that the spirit of devotion will soothe both the soul and the stomach! Snacks and mini meals are the popular fare with aloo-puri, chana-bhatura, hing-ki-kachori and paneer pakora being the front runners. The sweet lovers are in for a treat with pedhas, laddoos, rabri, khurchan, kalakand, balushahi and kheer being just a few of the favourites. A typical breakfast consists of crisp jalebis and bedmi (a spiced puri). So, dump the fried eggs and get ready to rake in some serious calories! Shikanji, lassi and milk are the beverages on offer.

SHOPPING

The city bazaars are full of shops with what we call 'Krishna-ware'! Mathura is also famous for sculptures, hand-embroidered cloth, silver ornaments, textiles and handicrafts, so pick up some sarees or jewellery when visiting. Additionally, the city has tons of Krishna-related material like pictures, rings, necklaces and pendants.

The Radha Dhiraj Bazaar, adjacent to the Dwarkadheesh Temple, is the place to buy some silver jewellery. Holi Gate Darwaza is the main shopping area selling everything from eatables and clothes to stationery and handicrafts. Krishna Janmabhoomi is popular for its bangles. Shankar Halwai and BMB are famous for the Mathura pedha and anyone can point them out to you.

ENTERTAINMENT

Not surprisingly the action is in August-September during the festival of Janmashtami or Krishna Jayanti, which commemorates the birth of Krishna. Diwali (November) and Holi (March) are also celebrated with great religious fervour. Janmotsav, Annakut Festival and the Trinavat Mela are some of the other occasions during which Mathura comes alive. It is best if you consult the Hindu calendar for the exact dates of the festivals.

LOCATION

Mathura in Uttar Pradesh is on the western arm of the fast-flowing Yamuna at convenient distances from Delhi (145 km) and Agra (58 km). The temple-town of Vrindavan is close by, 10 km from Mathura.

By Air

Neither Mathura nor Vrindavan has an airport. Airport: Kheria in Agra (58 km) is the nearest airport. Palam airport in Delhi (145 km) is another option. IA operates a daily hopping flight on the Delhi-Agra-Varanasi-Khajuraho sector.

By Rail

Mathura sits on the main lines of the Central and Western Railways. It has trains coming in from Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore, Calcutta and Agra, to name a few. Additionally, all nearby places are connected by rail to Mathura. Railway Station: Mathura Junction is south of the New Bus Stand.

By Road

Mathura on NH 2 is easily accessible from almost all cities in Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Haryana and Rajasthan. The six-lane highway is very smooth and excellent to drive on. Bus stand: There are two bus terminuses, the Old Bus Stand and the New Bus Stand. UP State Road Transport Corporation (UPSRTC) has buses plying between Mathura and other nearby cities.

CLIMATE

Summer can be scorching hot with temperatures touching the high 40s. Monsoons are delightful with swings and songs and tales of eternal love. Winters are chilly, with night temperatures dropping to 4-5ºC.

Another popular temple at Vrindavan, it was designed and built in 1876 by a wealthy jeweler, Shah Kundan Lal of Lucknow. The deities at the temple are popularly known as the Chhote Radha Raman. Noted for its magnificent architecture and beautiful marble sculpture, the temple has twelve spiral columns each 15 feet high. The Basanti Kamra - the darbar hall is famed for its Belgian glass chandeliers and fine paintings.

Along the Mathura-Vrindavan road, is the Gita Mandir, which houses the Gita Stambh, a pillar with the entire Bhagavad Gita carved on its surface. The imposing temple, built by one of the country's leading industrial families, the Birlas, is overshadowed by the outrageous multistoried, spaceship like edifice known as the Pagal Baba Mandir just down the road.

From about 25 ghats in Mathura, the most important is the Vishram Ghat where according to legend; Shri Krishna took his rest after killing Kansa. It is at Vishram Ghat that the traditional parikrama (circumbulation of all the important religious and cultural places of the city) starts and ends. It is lined with elegant temples and some of Matura's most important shrines - the Mukut Temple, Radha-Damodar, Murli Manohar, Neelkantheshwar, Yamuna-Krishna, Langali Hanuman and Narasimha temples are found here. The baithak of the great Vaishnava Saint, Shri Chaitanya, is also near by. The aarti held at the Vishram Ghat each evening is an experience, not to be missed, for the little oil lamps that are floated on the river set the placid water to sparkle with myriad flickering lights.

This 10 km long Goverdhan hillock is supposed to have been raised by child Krishna on his finger to save residents from the rain, which threatened to destroy Brij Bhomi. Hardevaji Temple is 400 years old. Jusum Sarovar, 3 Km from town has a cenotaph in memory of Suraj Mal. On the other side of Mansi Ganga are two more cenotaphs dedicated to Bharatpurs past rulers. At Radha Kund, 5 km to the north, Krishna is said to have bathed for self-purification.

Vrindavan is 15 Km away, and is closely associated with Krishna as Mathura. Believed to have been the venue of Krishna's romantic and mischievous escapades, Vrindavan has hundreds of shrines, several ghats and many tanks.

BANKE - BIHARI TEMPLE - Built in 1864, it is one of Vrindavan's most popular temples, and famous all over India. Here Swami Haridasa discovered the Deity of Banke-bihari in Nidhuvana. A contemporary of the six Gosvamis, Swami Haridasa is known for his devotional bhajans. BRIJBHOOMI - The land where Lord Krishna was born and spent his youth, today has small towns and hamlets that are still alive with the Krishna legend and still redolent with the music of his flute. DWARKADISH TEMPLE - Built in 1814 in the center of the town, it is the most visited temple in Mathura. Managed by followers of Vallabhacharya, it is architecturally interesting. The temple carving and paintings are major attractions and is a hub of activity during the festivals. JAIN TIRTH - Nearly 30 cm. long, light - almond - colored, wooden sandals of Jambuswamaji. Tirth is at a distance of four kilometers from Mathura. This tirth (pilgrimage) belongs to the times of Bhagawan Suparshvanth. JAIPUR TEMPLE - One of Vrindavan's most opulent temples, it was built by the Maharaja of Jaipur, Sawai Madhav, in 1917 after 30 years of labor. JUGAL KISHORE TEMPLE - This is one of the oldest temples of Vrindavana and was completed in 1627. After Emperor Akbar's visit to Vridavan in the year 1570, he gave permission for four temples to be built by the Gaudya Vaisnavas, which were Madana-mohana, Govindaji, Gopinatha and Jugal kishore temple. KATRA MASJID - Around 500m west of Jami Masjid, stands the impressive red sandstone Katra Masjid built by Aurangzeb. This was erected on the foundations of the once-famous Kesava Deo temple, destroyed by the Moghul emperor. KESI GHATA - This is the place where Lord Krishna, killed the Kesi demon that appeared in the form of a gigantic horse, and then took his bath in this very same ghata. This is also very famous bathing place in Vrindavan. An arati (prayer with lamps) to Yamuna Devi is held daily. MATHURA KRISHNA BALRAM MANDIR - Built by the International Society for Shri Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), it is one of the most beautiful temples in Vrindavan. The principal deities of this temple are Krishna, his brother Balram and Radha (Krishna's consort). RADHA DAMODARA TEMPLE - This is one of the most important temples in Vrindavan. The original deity was hand carved by Rupa Gosvami and given as a gift to his beloved disciple, Jiva Gosvami, who later built a temple here. RADHA MADANA - MOHAN TEMPLE - This famous temple was established by Srila Sanatana Gosvami and was the first temple to be built in Vrindavan, which at that time was just a forest. The original Deity of Madana-mohana was taken to Karauli in Rajasthan. RADHA VALLABHA TEMPLE - Another very popular temple of Vrindavan which was founded by Harivamsa Gosvami, who started the Radha Vallabha sect emphasizing devotion to Radharani. In this temple, there is no deity of Radharani, but a crown has been placed next to Krishna, to signify here presence. RADHARAMANA TEMPLE - This is the famous temple of Gopala Bhatta Gosvami. Radharamana means one who gives pleasure to Radha, and is one of the many names of Lord Krishna. The wooden sitting place (chowki) and shawl (chaddar) of Lord Chaitanya, that he gave as a gift to Gopala Bhatt Gosvami is placed here. RANGAJI TEMPLE - This South Indian style temple was built by the wealthy Seth family of Mathura in the year 1851, and is dedicated to Lord Ranganatha or Rangaji, a form of Lord Vishnu lying down on the Sesa Naga (celestial serpent). SEVA KUNJA - The Seva Kunj is where Lord Krishna once performed the Raaslila with Radha-Rani decorating her hair with flowers and her lotus feet. Radha and Krishna would sometimes spend the night here, dancing with the gopis and enjoying transcendental pastimes. THE GOVEREMENT MUSEUM - MATHURA - The Government Museum is today one of the leading centres for research, study, and the preservation of Mathura's splendid heritage of art. The museum is housed, in a fine octagonal, red sandstone building.